Diamond Nozzle 3 in 1 - Multicolour

If you love 3D printing (like we do) and have been looking for fun new ways to stretch the boundaries of what’s possible in desktop fabrication, the 0.4mm Diamond 3-in-1 Multicolour Nozzle is just what you’ve been looking for!

With a clever design that accepts three different inputs, the Diamond Nozzle is one of the leading methods of multi-colour printing, capable of switching 3D Filaments on-the-fly without having to stop the machine and endure through the entire filament-changing process. Instead, with some adjustments to the typical G-Code that would be used, you can choose to print objects in a variety of multi-colour formats, even allowing you to print soluble support structures for two other coloured filaments – all without having to stop your 3D printer or manually swap out to different filament types and colours.

Be aware before buying this, however, that’s it’s not an easy task to get this nozzle and the associated extruder system set up. This is why we recommend the Diamond Nozzle only for enthusiasts who have a reasonably strong knowledge of 3D Printing, although we have certainly enjoyed the sheer feeling of accomplishment (as well the results!) of getting this Diamond Nozzle installed and printing in multiple colours.

Please Note: This nozzle does not include the compatible E3D V5 or E3D V6 Hotend Assemblies. You will also have to print the shroud for the fan and cooling towers yourself, although these, as well as a few updated and upgraded variations, can easily be found on Thingiverse or similar sites.

Quick Guide to Changing your 0.4mm 3-in-1 Diamond Nozzle:

When fitting the tri-extruder diamond nozzle, there are a few vital steps that are very important to follow in order to avoid any leaks or problems when the nozzle heats up to blistering hot temperatures. Fortunately, these are not difficult steps, and as long as you follow them carefully you should be able to avoid many of the common mistakes that most people encounter – giving you a great jumpstart on your tri-extrusion adventures.

The simple seven steps to the common “Hot Tightening Technique” are as follows:

• Step 1: Before you begin to install the nozzle, connect up the cooling fan and set it to run – this will ensure that you don’t burn out your nozzle while fitting it.
• Step 2: Now that you have safeguarded against overheating, the next step is to heat up the nozzle to around 285°C – while ensuring that you don’t go above this temperature so as to protect the thermistor.
• Step 3: If you have any hotend assemblies attached to the nozzle, carefully but firmly grip the nozzle with a tool, and remove the hotend assemblies without damaging the relatively sensitive heatbreaks.
• Step 4: For the next
• Step 5: Next, you will need to hold the nozzle firmly in place and, with a tool, grip the heatbreak of one of the hotend assemblies and slowly screw it into the nozzle so that it fits flush with the printed centre-mount – while being cautious not to force too much torque onto the heatbreak. This step needs to be repeated for each hotend assembly.
• Step 6: After you have installed the hotend assemblies, check to make sure that they are not too tight, as they will change shape slightly when cooled. If they are too tight, then the cooling process will cause them to squeeze together and break, so be sure that there is at least enough space to fit a small piece of insulation, fire-resistant textile or similar material between the nozzle and the cooling towers.
• Step 7: Finally, turn off the heat and reduce the fan to half-power in order to let the entire assembly cool down at a reasonable speed. If you have done each step right then you will be left with a firm, secure and well-fitted extruder assembly – ready to print in multiple colours without ever having to change filaments mid-print.

The reason for this technique is because the aluminium Heatbreaks have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass used for the nozzles. This can result in a small gap of air between the nozzle and the heatbreak during heating, but this of course only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.