0.4mm E3D Hardened Steel Nozzle for 1.75mm Filament

3D Printing in unique and Exotic Filaments is always an exciting time, but often these specialised filaments require specialised nozzles because of their unique properties. Some 3D Filaments, like Glow in the Dark for example, are incredibly abrasive and can cause quick wear and tear for brass nozzles, which of course can lead to failed or low quality prints and many other problems like clogging, jams or even overheating in some cases.

This is why we make sure to offer specialised 3D Printer Nozzles in various materials, such as these 0.4mm E3D Hardened Steel Nozzles, which are highly resistant to wear and tear, and are capable of handling the harsh abrasive qualities that some of the most Exotic 3D Filaments have. Just remember, however, that because these are not made from the brass materials you are accustomed to, hardened steel nozzles will offer different heat transfer characteristics. As such, you may have to accommodate this in your settings depending on your printer and previous settings, but don’t worry, having a durable and reliably wear-resistant nozzle is certainly worth the time spent “dialling in” the new settings.

While these nozzles are designed for 1.75mm filament input, it’s important to note the output diameter of 0.4mm, which is the stock standard size that comes included on many popular Desktop 3D Printers from brands like Wanhao and Creality. It is a great size that offers the perfect balance of speed and accuracy, making it one of the most common choices when it comes to nozzle outputs.

Quick Guide to Changing your 0.4mm E3D Hardened Steel Nozzle:

When swapping out 3D Printer Nozzles from other components, we recommend utilising the hot tightening technique for optimal thermal coupling. To do this, simply follow these easy steps, while being careful not to burn yourself of course.

• Unscrew the heatbreak from the heatsink by about half a turn, to be sure you are not tightening against the heatbreak in later stages.
• Heat up your hotend to 285°C, but do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
• Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block and insert the new nozzle.
• While firmly gripping the heater block, slowly tighten the nozzle. Be careful, however, that you not apply any torque through the heatbreak, as they are fragile and relatively easy to break when loose.
• Turn off the heating unit and allow the hot side to cool.
• Finally, once the nozzle is installed and cooled down, tighten the heatbreak back into the heatsink and ensure that there are no loose parts.

The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heat breaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hot end is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.

*Note: This is not supplied by E3D, although it is manufactured to the same specs and quality controlled locally to ensure it functions exactly as expected - while saving you money.