0.8mm E3D VMA Nozzle for 3mm All-Metal Hotend Expand

0.8mm E3D VMA Nozzle for 3mm Filament

HWPHNVMA3X.8

New

These 0.8mm E3D VMA Brass Nozzles are for 3mm Filament 3D printers, and are capable of melting filament at rapid rates due to the extended length.

More details

4 Items

Warning: Last items in stock!

R49.95

tax incl.

Spend R1,000.00 more and get Free Shipping!

Free shipping over R1000 only for standard courier and within South Africa

These 0.8mm E3D VMA Nozzles are designed for 3mm Filament, and are excellent general purpose, low-cost nozzles that are a favourite choice amongst many 3D Makers throughout the world. It made from brass, which offers a good balance of thermal conductivity and easy machining capabilities, with natural corrosion resistance to avoid pitting or unnecessary wear and tear.

These nozzles are made to fit the E3D V6 Volcano Heater Blocks in E3D V6 VMA hotend assemblies, and are around 8.5mm longer than standard E3D Nozzles. As such, you may need to adjust your Z-Axis values to lift the extruder slightly higher than usual if you are changing to a VMA Nozzle, which will help you avoid nozzle crashes or bad layering while 3D Printing.

The benefits that these nozzles offer include better print layer accuracy, as well as the ability to print at a much faster rate due to the larger nozzle output diameter. However, it’s important to bear in mind that brass nozzles are more susceptible to wear and tear than stainless steel, especially when printing with Exotic Filaments like metal-powder, glow in the dark, carbon-fibre filled and other unique polymers.

 

0.8mm E3D VMA Nozzle for 3mm  -  Technical Specifications:

  • Material

– Brass

  • Filament Compatibility

– 3mm

  • Output Diameter

– 0.8mm

  • Thread Diameter

– M6

  • Nozzle Length

– 21mm

 

Quick Guide to Changing your 0.8mm E3D VMA Nozzle:

When swapping out 3D Printer Nozzles from other components, we recommend utilising the hot tightening technique for optimal thermal coupling. To do this, simply follow these easy steps, while being careful not to burn yourself of course.

  • Unscrew the heatbreak from the heatsink by about half a turn, to be sure you are not tightening against the heatbreak in later stages.
  • Heat up your hotend to 285°C, but do not overshoot as you risk damaging your thermistor.
  • Remove the existing nozzle from the heater block and insert the new nozzle.
  • While firmly gripping the heater block, slowly tighten the nozzle. Be careful, however, that you not apply any torque through the heatbreak, as they are fragile and relatively easy to break when loose.
  • Turn off the heating unit and allow the hot side to cool.
  • Finally, once the nozzle is installed and cooled down, tighten the heatbreak back into the heatsink and ensure that there are no loose parts.

The reason for this is that the aluminium heater blocks used have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than the brass and steel used in the nozzles and heat breaks. This results in a small gap being created between the nozzle and the break inside the block when the hot end is at temperature, but this only happens if the nozzle has been tightened while cold.

 

*Note: This is not supplied by E3D, although it is manufactured to the same specs and quality controlled locally to ensure it functions exactly as expected - while saving you money.

 

No customer reviews for the moment.

Write a review